Introduction: Legends and Legacies of Borshchiv
A Prayer for Ukraine / courtesy of Ukrainian Bandurist Chorus
The Borshchiv Region
The Borshchiv region is an area in the Ternopil oblast (province) of the ethnographic region of Podillia, with the cities of Zalishchyky to its east and Chortkiv and Kopychyntsi to its north. The Borshchiv region encompasses 1,000 square kilometres with one city after which it is named, two towns, and 69 villages. Once a raion (county) in its own right, the Borshchiv region was merged into the Chortkiv raion on July 18, 2020.
Farming was the most common occupation, with generations of families working on the same land. The region’s warm climate produced a variety of crops including sugar beets, wheat, barley, and tobacco. In the past, hemp was grown and thrived in the black soil of Podillia. The natural resources of the region also fostered the cultivation of orchards, animal husbandry, and beekeeping. Other enterprises such as masonry, shoemaking, weaving, and blacksmithing were seasonal.
Life in the Borshchiv Region
In the Borshchiv region, customs and traditions were based on the religious and seasonal calendars. The seasonal calendar determined the annual cycle of activities related to the harvest year. Everyday agricultural activities like ploughing and planting called for simpler clothing, especially when it came to the sorochka (chemise). These sorochky were modestly embroidered, if at all, and were worn by farmers who also served their communities as weavers, masons, shoemakers, and blacksmiths in the off-seasons.
Occasions such as church attendance, holidays, and feast days called for an exceptional sorochka. The black-embroidered sorochka of the Borshchiv region has drawn the attention of many collectors in Ukraine and the diaspora. This festive sorochky is known for the richness of their embroidery created from black sheep’s wool. Some are also embellished with coloured or metallic threads, sequins, and beads. We can only marvel at the variation and quality of these unique works of art, which the Borshchiv people have established as their legacy.
Legends and Lore
There are several legends surrounding the origin of the black embroidered sorochka. Popular legend states that sorochky embroidered in black were worn as a sign of mourning. The legend says that invaders carried out raids across Europe, killing nearly every man from the villages of Borshchiv. In their grief, women vowed to mourn the dead for seven generations, wearing sorochky predominantly embroidered with black wool.
Another legend states that black embroidery was worn as a talisman to ensure good health. Legend has it that the Borshchiv region was plagued with disease from which women suffered. To protect themselves and their descendants, women began embroidering their sorochky with black wool which they believed could deceive death.
Black wool embroidery is also said to be symbolic of the rich black soil of Podillia. Legend states that the villages of Borshchiv had been devastated by a drought. One night, the Blessed Virgin appeared to an elder woman in a dream and explained to her that embroidering sorochky with black wool would summon the rain. The woman shared her dream with her fellow villagers, who began to embroider their sorochky accordingly. Dressed in their black sorochky, they raised their arms in prayer, and the Lord sent rain.
From the Collection
Leonard Krawchuk
Born in Flin Flon, Manitoba, Leonard Krawchuk is arguably the most prolific collector of Ukrainian artifacts and cultural research in Canada. His family history in Canada began when his great-grandfather emigrated from Tsyhany in the Borshchiv Region in 1902 and helped found the village of Pine River, Manitoba. Leonard began collecting out of a desire to connect with the past and articulate his own Ukrainian heritage. His love affair with the arts was sparked and supported by his mother, his aunt, and his grandmother.
Leonard collects according to the geography of Ukraine, searching for attire characteristic of all ethnic regions. He also has an outstanding collection of Hutsul pottery – one of the best in Canada. In addition, he collects rushnyky (embroidered towels), kylymy (tapestry rugs), porcelain figurines, and paintings of Ukrainian rural life, along with postcards, jewellery, and coins. The Ukrainian Museum of Canada, Ontario Branch is honoured to have been chosen by Leonard Krawchuk as the home for his vast and varied collection.
Moloda (Bride)
The moloda would wear a full-length sorochka with elaborate embroidery. Wrapped around the waist was a black obhortka (wrap-around skirt) decorated with vertical and horizontal stripes and held in place by a woven wool poyas (sash). In most villages, a zapaska (apron) was worn over the obhortka. This could be decorated with coloured or metallic threads, sequins, and beads. In the fall or winter, the moloda would also wear a sheepskin bunda (vest) or svyta (wool coat).
During the wedding ceremony, the moloda would wear a vinok (wreath) combined with a chil’tse (headband) decorated with flowers, ribbons, beads, and sequins. The vinok symbolizes youth, innocence, and virginity. After the ceremony, the vinok would be replaced with a peremitka (head-cloth) covering the hair and neck. This ritual marked the moloda’s transition from maiden to matron.
Moloday (Groom)
The moloday would wear a knee-length sorochka decorated with fine embroidery. The sorochka was worn over the pants and tied at the waist with a woven wool poyas or leather cheres (belt). A unique custom in some villages was to embellish the pant legs with horizontal pleats. In the summer, the moloday would wear a straw kapelukh (hat) with a decorative band of beads, feathers, flowers, or pom-poms. In the fall or winter, he would wear a sheepskin bunda or svyta with a kuchma (shearling hat).